Often overlooked in South Asia, in large part for the long-lasting ethnic-based conflict in the north, this island nation offers a fascinating lens into a developing country. Warm hospitality and genuineness blend with social conservatism and a gentle reserve in the country of 21 million people.
Visiting the capital Colombo with trips to Kandy, the ancient cities and a national park, it quickly became obvious that this country is underrated. The rich historical archeological sites – especially Sirigiya – offer important insight into how Buddhism extended through Asia and reveal the strong cultural, architectural and artistic traditions. The beautiful frescoes are worth the steep climb up 1002 steps around the Sirigiya rock, as is a visit to the famous Tooth Temple in Kandy. Not inundated with tourists these glimpses of ancient social relations and political power reveal the critical role of family and regional diversity of political power in the island.
Sri Lanka’s importance as a religious center is also overlooked. The role that Buddhism has played both within the country among the majority Sinhalese and globally is a central part of the country’s identity. Pilgrimages from around the world are common, especially to Kandy, as the debates in monasteries feed into contemporary discussions of Theravada Buddhism. I arrived on poya – the full moon – and watched the festivities associated with marking this holy day. Despite Buddhism’s prominence, Hinduism is alive and well among the Tamils and there are a growing number of Muslims. Villages and communities remain ethnically segregated and this becomes increasingly obvious as one moves into the rural areas. A Sri Lankan’s religious identity is perhaps the strongest defining social cleavage, as it reinforces other markers of language and ethnicity. Ethnic differences remain sharp in a polity where ethnicity has been a defining feature.
On my first safari (ever!) I witnessed the strong conservationist tradition in Sri Lanka. Many argue this is the impact of Hinduism and Buddhism, with their respect for the environment. One could see first-hand the respect for nature and living creatures. While visiting one of the national parks I was able to see wild elephants, peacocks and even a crocodile (not the human kind!). To watch the animals free in their domain was inspiring and very much worth the risk of snakes, leeches and bruises from the jeep.
Less so was the obvious legacy of war. Sri Lankans are extremely happy that the conflict has ended,( well at least for now). They are able to travel on the A-9 North-South highway, although the area around Jaffna remains off-limits. There are still an estimated 60,000 people in the IDP camps, and serious concerns about the treatment the Tamil minority. The policies for resettlement and peace-building do not evoke confidence. Racism against the Tamil minority and increasingly against the Muslim community is deeply engrained. The responses of the government in the post-war environment have yet to suggest that peace will be long-lasting, as the causes of the war remain and are arguably being enhanced by policies and practices in the post-war environment. One of the most striking features while traveling were the photographs of the current President, Mahinda Rajapaksa, suggesting a cult of personality amidst rumors of increasing corruption and abuse. This does not bode well for long-lasting peace. Hope lies, however, in the people of Sri Lanka, who deserve and want a better life.
In June I made my first trip to India since I was a child. I visited the traditional “Golden Triangle” – Delhi-Agra-Jaipur. The trip was wonderful, as it opened my eyes to the “modern, more confident” India and simultaneously reawakened my south-south connections.
India like the rest of world – mixes modernity with tradition. The honor killings stand side-by-side with a vibrant women’s rights movement. For me, what struck me during this trip were two “new” developments. First was the embrace of technology in India. The image of a banana seller on the roadside in the desert of Rajasthan using his cell phone to connect with his family sticks with me. India is not a country of Luddites. Computers, phones, and other electronic cadets are being embraced and made into their own. Delhi may not be the programming center of Bangalore, but its technological savviness was impressive. The use of technology appeared empowering, aiding communication and addressing some of the prominent social inequalities in the country. The use of the cell phones has become so common that this is helping address the infrastructural deficits. This pattern of using technology to address social inequalities is common in the developing world – and been a cornerstone of the involvement of groups such as the Gates Foundation – but what distinguished India was the attitude toward technology, a willingness to accept and adapt technology as their own.
The second “modern” thing that stood out was the emergence of the middle class. It is a powerful social force that is driving social change. Consumer habits and values are transforming quickly, particularly among the young middle class. India- like China – is a new market that offers promise for any producer. The middle class in India is emerging along the patterns found historically in Europe and the West, not connected to government funds, jobs and contracts (a pattern one finds in many parts of Southeast Asia) but one driven by entrepreneurship and creativity. This bodes well for its development long-term. What was interesting to me, however, was that the middle class had not yet translated into a political force, at least a recognizable one. Politics remains patronage and personality driven, ethnically tied, and largely local. While there are calls for better governance, especially performance in the economy, the connection between the middle class and political parties appeared weak, as “traditional” patterns shaped politics to a large extent. Where the middle class has had its most important political impact is in civil society it seems. Longer term, I expect considerable change here too.
The final issue that sticks with me is the impact of Persian culture on northern India. This was translated during the Mughal period and can be found in the fabulous monuments and buildings, including the stunning Taj Mahal and Amber Fort. It was the screens, the carvings, the architecture and the art work, both in the monuments and in the contemporary markets of Jaipur that illustrated the long-lasting effect of the south-south ties of India to the rest of the world. Personally, the trip to northern India reminded me of the land of my birth and its own magnificent treasures, Iran. Visiting India was like a visit to my earlier home.
Special thanks to Philip Oldenburg, a mentor from Columbia, for showing me around northern India and to the people who welcomed me with their great food, openness and exciting embrace of old and new.
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